Riccardo Tisci drew inspiration from Burberry’s design heritage by re-imagining the British label’s trenchcoats and camel, black and red check at London Fashion Week on Monday (February 17).
U.S. models Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid, and Russian Irina Shayk, walked in an Autumn-Winter 2020 collection that featured the house’s signature neutral tones and references to old-style English tailoring and vintage sportswear.
Silhouettes were lengthened and trenchcoats came in multiple variations, including oversized, fur trimmed and sleeveless, in a show titled “Memories”.
Single outfits combined different sizes and colours of the 164-year-old label’s classic check, paired with minimal accessories.
Tisci has revamped Burberry since he joined in 2018, changing the label’s typeface, introducing a “TB” monogram and bringing an edginess to its classic styles.
The Italian’s designs are key to Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti’s aim to move the label further upmarket.
His shows have created buzz, particularly among younger shoppers in China who are spending more on luxury brands, with product shown on the runway selling well in stores.
But Burberry, like other European fashion houses, has been hit hard by the outbreak of coronavirus in China, its most important growth market, as shoppers have deserted upmarket malls in major cities and tourism has slumped.
(Production: Will Russell, Hanna Rantala)